How To Install Fascias and Soffits

Alternatively a low-level platform such as a pop up scissor lift or a Boss x2 scissor lift provides an excellent stable base to work from providing you have access and a level ground line.

If you are replacing old soffit boards then it is important to establish whether they contain asbestos, which was common in older properties. If so, then it is necessary to contact your local authority for further advice before you start.

The first job is to clear the working areas. That means removing old guttering and downpipes, recycling them and fitting new ones when the job is done. Push back the second row of tiles and carefully remove the first row so you can get to the fascia and soffits.

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It is usual to find that the felting is damaged and decayed where moisture has permeated by nesting birds and it is also important to watch out wasps nests.

Cut back the felting and fit a damp course or PVC underneath to ensure that any water runs over the fascia and into the gutter. The fascia can now be removed. It is important to clean and refurbish the area underneath the rafters and to check that the rafters are in good condition. Any rafters that are showing signs of damage will need to be removed and replaced.

Next, make sure that the hangers are secure and form a strong base for both the soffits and the fascia.

For a new build, timber rafters must be a maximum of 600mm for all white fascias and 400mm for foiled fascias. Because foils absorb more heat than white fascias it is necessary for them to be spaced at shorter distances.

Gable end framing must be provided to fix barge boards. Always allow the correct expansion gaps at joints and corners when joining long sections of PVC fascia and soffit boards.