How To Install CCTV

Installing CCTV can give you ultimate peace of mind when it comes to safeguarding your property and your home. It also deters thieves. The key is to make sure that you have the right cables for the job.

For most CCTV systems, the industry standard is the RG59 Siamese cable which consists of positive and negative elements ie: one video cable and one power cable.

Choosing the right location for your CCTV is also important – there is no point in fixing up a camera focused on an area where there is not likely to be any action should a break-in occur. Specialist CCTV design software is available to help you decide. It is possible to use an IP Video System Design Tool to do this by importing the floor plans of your property and adding cameras so that you can see the sort of coverage it gives and the potential angle views.

In most instances cameras are installed in areas where the roof and the walls of the structure meet. This has additional benefits; it means that your cameras receive some protection from the weather and choosing a location high up means that it offers a wider view as well as being more difficult to vandalise.

Before you start the installation it is important to gather all of the equipment necessary for the job so that you can safely work at height. A step ladder is the obvious choice but often it might be better to choose equipment with a sturdier platform to work from such as a mobile scaffold tower or a low level platform.

Hiring a piece of specialist equipment such as podium steps or an alloy stair scaffold tower will give you added security and may well help you get the job done quickly and easily.

Fixing your CCTV camera where the walls meet the roof will also make it easier for you to access a point of entrance such as the loft space to run the CCTV cables into the building.

Next you can run the cables through the attic and into the room where the monitor is located and connect it to the DVR. (You may need to purchase additional connections for the cables).

To avoid potential damage, it is important to ensure that the correct DC voltage is supplied to your cameras. If in doubt, make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It is also recommended that the DVR is plugged into the monitor before you switch on the power supply.

How To Install A Chandelier

A chandelier creates a really beautiful centrepiece in any home. The reflection of light from countless crystal droplets can give a very special effect but installing such a complicated light fitting can turn into a nightmare if you don’t plan ahead and use the right equipment.

Follow a few simple steps and installing a chandelier can be completed quickly and easily without damaging any of the precious crystal strands.

First things first; it is important to switch off the electricity that will be powering the chandelier. That means turning off the power in the room that you are working in. Make sure you disconnect the fuse of the power supply before you continue and move away any breakable objects from your working area.

Use a step ladder, or better still a low level platform such as podium steps or a delta deck as a secure base to work from and put a thick blanket on the floor so that if you do accidentally drop any of the crystal prisms it will cushion the fall and minimise breakages.

Before you actually start installing the chandelier, it is wise to test that the power is off. Don’t just try the light switch, use a non-contact voltage tester or a circuit tester to confirm that there is no power in the fitting.

Move detachable pieces of the old fitting. Using specialist work at height equipment such as narrow podiums steps with a wide working space will help here because it will give you somewhere safe to put the pieces while you are dismantling the fitting.

You may need a wrench or a screwdriver to detach the old fitting. This job is easier if you have an assistant to help. It is important not to let the old fitting hang just from its wiring without support because it could fall damaging the wiring.

Make a note of how the wires are connected. Most are colour coded and it might even be worth making a diagram of how it all fits together. If you have any doubts at all then get a qualified electrician to help you, it is not worth taking any risks.

Establish the weight of your chandelier in advance. If it weighs more than 50lbs you will need to install additional support such as a fan brace or a box.

Once you know that that there is sufficient support for your chandelier then the next step is to assemble the chandelier base. Remember that a chandelier should be at least seven foot above ground level so it may be necessary to shorten the chain on the fitting.

Finish assembling the chandelier. Avoid twisting the chandelier too much because it can loosen the wiring.

Once the chandelier is assembled and the power is switched back on you can sit back, relax and enjoy your room’s stunning centrepiece. You will be surprised what a difference it makes to the reflection of light.

How to install fascias and soffits

Many people are put off by carrying out repairs and refits when it comes to fascia and soffit boards on their home. It really is a straightforward task and providing you use the right equipment and adhere to a few rules then there is no reason why you can’t do it yourself.

Safety is the key so it is important that you can easily access the area using the right equipment so it is worth hiring scaffolding or a mobile scaffold tower with staging boards so that you have a wider reach.

Alternatively a low-level platform such as a pop up scissor lift or a Boss x2 scissor lift provides an excellent stable base to work from providing you have access and a level ground line.

If you are replacing old soffit boards then it is important to establish whether they contain asbestos, which was common in older properties. If so, then it is necessary to contact your local authority for further advice before you start.

The first job is to clear the working areas. That means removing old guttering and downpipes, recycling them and fitting new ones when the job is done. Push back the second row of tiles and carefully remove the first row so you can get to the fascia and soffits.

It is usual to find that the felting is damaged and decayed where moisture has permeated by nesting birds and it is also important to watch out wasps nests.

Cut back the felting and fit a damp course or PVC underneath to ensure that any water runs over the fascia and into the gutter. The fascia can now be removed. It is important to clean and refurbish the area underneath the rafters and to check that the rafters are in good condition. Any rafters that are showing signs of damage will need to be removed and replaced.

Next, make sure that the hangers are secure and form a strong base for both the soffits and the fascia.

For a new build, timber rafters must be a maximum of 600mm for all white fascias and 400mm for foiled fascias. Because foils absorb more heat than white fascias it is necessary for them to be spaced at shorter distances.

Gable end framing must be provided to fix barge boards. Always allow the correct expansion gaps at joints and corners when joining long sections of PVC fascia and soffit boards.

How To Paint A House

Painting your house needn’t be complicated. Nor do you necessarily need to call in the experts. Providing you are reasonably fit it is likely that you will be able to tackle this job yourself.

The first stage is to inspect your paint work. It might be that you can get away with touching up the areas that are deteriorating most or simply to paint the side of the property that is most exposed to the elements.

Choose a dry day when temperatures are not too cold or when there is not too much hot sun beating down. Very cold temperatures and hot sunshine can ruin any new paint work.

Make sure you have all the appropriate equipment so that you can reach all areas of your paint work. You could, of course, use an extension ladder for the higher areas or a step ladder for the paint work that is just out of reach but for extra safety it is often better to hire a mobile scaffold tower. That way you will have a strong secure platform to work from.

Think carefully about hard-to-reach areas and how to work round large immovable objects. It may be necessary to hire staging boards to give you a wider reach or a high clearance frame while working round conservatories or porches. A low-level platform can also be useful where you need extra stability.

Take a good look at your walls and wash them with a hose and warm soapy water so that you can really see any damaged areas.

Keep a sharp eye out for blistering or peeling paint, mildew, and rust. When you have identified the problem areas, you can repair them and the better your repair, the longer your paint job will last in the future.

Look out for leaks under gutters and downpipes and repair them to solve the problem before painting. Remember to remove wall fittings and fixtures including name plaque, numbers, lights and awnings all of which should be cleaned, repaired and where necessary, painted separately.

Make sure your house is thoroughly dry before you start painting. There are many different types of paint out there so it might be worth taking advice on the right type of paint for the job. Using a brush or a pad may be time-consuming or you could hire a sprayer to speed up the process but try this out at ground level first, a high pressure sprayer may have the power to knock you off a ladder. Use protective clothing and goggles and practice at ground level before moving on to higher areas.

The most important thing is to make sure the preparation and painting are well done and take your time – all your hard work will pay off in the long run ensuring that the paint job will last for many years to come.

How to fix roof tiles

Every householder has to cope from time to time with deterioration of the fabric of the property resulting from ageing, the weather or other causes. Some are minor jobs a busy home-owner may choose to put off for a while. But one job that cannot be ignored is a leaky roof.

It’s vital to replace broken tiles to prevent damage to ceilings and the general fabric of the house.

Replacing a cracked roof tile or two is not a difficult job, and one any fit, handy person can do for themselves.

There are many different kinds of roofing tiles on the market. Make sure you have the right replacement tiles to hand before you start. Then think hard about how you intend to get on to the roof. Roofs can be steep and slippery. Safety is crucial. Falls can be deadly.

The job itself might be simple, but remember that it has to be done at roof height. A small job can be tackled with a roofing ladder that hooks on to the roof ridge. Make sure the ladder you to use to get on to the roof is stable, and get someone to hold the bottom of the ladder. Move carefully and wear gloves.

If the work is likely to be not just a minor repair but something more extensive that will take time, it might be better to hire a mobile scaffold tower and staging boards or alternatively a low-level platform.

For really extensive roof-repair work, rigid scaffolding is the only safe answer. Obviously that will cost more if you live in a house with two or more storeys than if you live in a bungalow.

Every job is different, but think it all out before you start. How big an area of roof will you have to work on? Hiring a large scaffold tower might not necessarily be cheaper than scaffolding if you are going to have to move it about a lot.

Remember that while you are walking about on the roof making repairs you can easily crack more tiles, so move gently.

To replace a tile, lift slightly the tiles that overlap it, and use small wooden wedges to hold them up. Lift the broken tile and slide it down and out.

A new tile can stand out on an older roof. If you don’t want that, you can try to find reclaimed tiles that match, or put the new tile in a less conspicuous spot on the roof and use a weathered tile where it shows.

How to install guttering

Installing your own guttering can save you money and isn’t difficult if you are reasonably fit and handy.

But as with all jobs that entail working from height, safety is a crucial factor. Falls can be deadly.

If you choose to use a ladder, make sure it’s on firm ground, properly upright, with its base a quarter of its height from the wall. Get someone to hold it. At least three rungs of an extension ladder should overlap, to give stability. It’s not safe to rest the ladder against guttering. So that its weight isn’t resting on the gutter, use a metal stand-off at the top to hold it away from the wall. For greater safety, hire an access tower and staging boards, a low level platform, or scaffolding.

Before you start, inspect the fascia boards and soffits. Replace any rotten wood before you fit new gutters. Make sure all wood is properly primed and painted.

Most modern guttering is plastic. It’s the easiest sort to fit, is durable and long-lasting, and comes in a range of shapes and styles.

Measure up and ascertain the length of guttering you need, and the various bends and fittings. Most gutters are eaves gutters, the kind you find at the edge of sloping roofs, attached to the fascia boards with brackets. For special purposes there are also several other types of guttering, square, mini ogee, and parapet and valley gutters. But most gutters are simple plastic eaves gutters.

The first bit to fit is the section with the outlet that joins the downpipe, either a stop-end outlet at the gutter end or a running outlet in the middle. Downpipes should be directly over a drain. To make sure they are, use a plumb line. The outlet should be no more than 50mm below the roof tiles.

At one end of the gutter, preferably the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, fit a gutter bracket, tie a line to its base, stretch it along the fascia and tie it to the outlet, and check with a spirit level that the fall is towards the outlet. Mark where the other brackets are to go. They should be no more than a metre apart and a maximum of 150mm from a joint or fitting. Do the same for mid-gutter outlets, so that the fall is always towards the outlet.

Fit the stop-ends and the rest of the brackets, then clip in the gutter. Join subsequent lengths of gutter to the first section using union pieces fixed to the fascia. Lengths can be cut to size with a hacksaw.

Because plastic guttering expands in hot weather and contracts in cold, fittings all have a depth mark. When you join sections of gutter or fit a section into a bracket, make sure you line up all the joints with the depth marks.

If your eaves overhang, you’ll need when fitting downpipes to bridge the gap between the gutter and the wall with fittings called offset bends, linked by a piece of downpipe. Making sure the downpipe is vertical, and fix it to the wall with the clips provided.

The first length of downpipe should be fitted with its socket at the top, ensuring that there is a 10mm gap, to allow for expansion, between the end of the outlet and the bottom of the socket.

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Accidents caused by lifting, carrying or handling proved to be the single biggest contributor to lost working days in 2012/13, according to the HSE.

The figures from the Health and Safety Executive show that the more than £1.5 million days taken off sick from work were as a result of a handling injury and that these sort of incidents were the most frequent cause of workers taken more than seven consecutive days off sick.

With an estimated total of three million working days lost due to handling injuries and slips and trips, it is important to think carefully about lifting and material handling on all levels.

Nowadays we are fortunate enough to have access to so much clever state-of-the-art equipment – in most cases there is nearly always some sort of machinery that has been specially designed to take the strain.

Using lifting equipment can allow contractors to work more efficiently while minimalising injury risk. There is so much specialist equipment now available either to buy or to hire – it is possible to find the perfect piece of kit no matter how difficult the job or what barriers might be in the way.

But sometimes manual handling is inevitable so it is important to consider all aspects of the lift to carry out an appropriate risk assessment.

Small points can make all the difference including:

  • Considering what type of lifting aid you need to suit the job in hand.
  • Thinking in advance in terms of storage; can very heavy items be delivered direct to the site or storage area?
  • Avoid carry heavy loads for any distance.

Whether it involves lifting, pushing, lowering or carrying, the Health and Safety Executive has produced plenty of tools to help contractors undertake manual handling safely. For more details visit http://www.hse.gov.uk/msd/manualhandling.htm

Scaffold Tower Hire Online

Recently we launched our online hire shop which showcases all our equipment available for hire. Now you can order Aluminium Scaffold Towers, Site Boxes, Razor Decks, Podium Steps, and all other product ranges online via the Lakeside-Hire website, as well as on the phone with our hire desk team.

Our regular customers will notice that we have not only invested time in our online shop, but also a refresh in design. Over the next few months, we aim to add videos, image galleries, user guides and all relevant information, to help you to find the right equipment for the job. The ability to create an account on the website means that you can keep track of your orders at any time and save your details securely to save time even further on your next hire.

We want to make hiring from us as easy and quick as possible, so you can focus on the job in hand, knowing that your hire equipment will be taken care of. Whether you’re a first time customer or one of our regulars, you can order online today with us. Scaffold tower hire has never been this easy, simply add your required equipment to the shopping basket and then pay using once of the methods available. A hire desk team member will be in touch shortly after to confirm your order.

Place Orders Online Using Mobile and Tablet Devices

Yes that’s right, you can now use your mobile phone and tablet device to place orders online for your hire equipment. The website has been optimised to work on all devices, making life simpler for you.

Scaffold Tower Hire From Us?

Concerned that hired equipment might not be up to scratch? You needn’t worry – every piece of equipment is pressure washed and thoroughly checked every time it returns from a job and all the equipment meets Health and Safety rules and regulations. We pride ourselves on exceeding your expectations with every Scaffold Tower Hire.

Our pre twelve guarantee means that you can receive delivery of your tower the next morning nationwide, as long as you order before 3pm the day before. The charge period for our towers is a full seven days, giving you more value for your money. Additional days are charged at a daily hire rate.

Why not place your next order with us online and give it a try.

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PAS250 comlient podium hire

A new safety standard has just been launched for podium steps, the low-level work platforms used in the building industry.

Equipment currently in use is in no way considered inherently dangerous. But the increase in the use of podiums in recent years, and some concerns about stability, have led PASMA, the leading mobile access tower trade association, to take the lead in introducing a minimum standard where until now none existed.

The new design specification, PAS 250, sets out a new minimum safety standard, including a specific requirement for stability. Concerns over the stability of podiums were a major part of the decision to create the specification, as well as several other requirements considered in need of improvement, such as “anti-surf” features preventing users from moving podiums while in use.

Other recommendations cover materials used, specifications for guard-rails, toe-boards, access and mobility, and on labels and user guides. A series of strength and stability tests are used to confirm that podiums meet specified standards.It’s the first time such guidelines have been introduced.

PAS 250 PASMA Podium steps image

PASMA’s move in setting new standards podiums have to reach to gain the PAS 250 accreditation is considered an important step towards eliminating the potential for falls from low levels. Although not enforceable by law, it will allow main contractors to state that their podiums comply with the new standards. As a result, it is expected that PAS 250-compliant podiums will begin to replace older models and become increasingly relied on in the future.

The creation of the Publicly Available Specification (PAS), developed in line with British Standards Institution (BSI) guidelines and in collaboration with partners including the Health and Safety Executive, was sponsored by PASMA, whose members have taken part in a self-verification process to help to ensure they stock equipment which complies with the new standard.

Because until now there has been no minimum product standard, some inferior equipment has entered the industry when safer options might have been available but hard to find without any official stamp of approval.

If you are looking to use compliant equipment, ask your suppliers about PAS 250. Or you can purchase a copy of the PAS 250 specification through PASMA’s online order form, available at www.pasma.co.uk/pasma-products) or from the BSI online shop at http://shop.bsigroup.com/pas250).

Setting a safety standard for the equipment, covering all low-level work platforms under 2.5 metres used by one person, is the final step in a three-point plan by PASMA to ensure a consistent standard of safety. Earlier steps included a training course and a guidance DVD.

Our PAS 250 Podium Steps Hire

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