In the construction industry, there is nothing more important than ensuring that the equipment you use is up to scratch, and is suitable for the task at hand. Roof ladders are a specific tool used for working at height, with a configuration that allows for additional stability.

As most jobs require certain tasks to be performed at certain times, hiring a roof ladder, rather than purchasing one outright, has several distinct advantages. For example, many of these tasks are performed with limitations on the amount of space in which they are carried out, often with other equipment being brought in to work the next part of the project.

Hiring a roof ladder gives you the option of calling in a collection whenever you’ve finished using the equipment. Not only does this free up space for continuing work, but also means that you don’t have to worry about long term storage of equipment, which could otherwise pose a significant issue when it comes to cost.

Of course, keeping equipment up to the highest possible standard is a must when it comes to hiring work apparatus. As such, we at Lakeside-Hire ensure that all of the equipment that you receive on-site has been thoroughly checked, cleaned, and maintained by our professional yard team.  Everything that’s delivered from our site to yours is guaranteed to meet the HSE standard, which means that you can be safe in the knowledge that our equipment won’t let you down.

We also understand that time is another factor which is crucial to consider. As such, our roof ladders can be on site the next day, giving you complete flexibility when it comes to getting what you need, when you need it.

So, if you’ve got a task that you know needs completing in the near future, regardless as to whether it’s a large company work, or merely something domestic, then give us a call, shoot us an e-mail, or browse through our website, and we’ll get you started on a great hire.

How to maintain fireplace and chimney

Maintaining your fireplace and chimney is not only a necessity, it can, in some cases be a lifesaver. Chimney fires are a common occurrence, especially in the autumn when people start using their fireplaces again after the summer period. The best time to maintain your chimney is after the cold season so that you know it is all ready for the following winter.

First, check the outside of the chimney. Although it is often better to leave the more difficult maintenance to the experts there are a few simple checks you can do to make sure that your chimney is in good working order.

Use an extension ladder, or better still, a mobile scaffold tower to access the top of the chimney. It might also be worth hiring a roof ladder so that you can get to the chimney quickly and safely. Clear any debris from the chimney cap such as dead leaves and check that it is in good condition. It is worth fitting a wire screen over the top of the chimney to stop animals, birds and debris coming down the chimney or flue. If you already have one then check it is still in good condition with no holes.

Look closely at the mortar between the bricks to make sure it is not flaking or cracked. It is also important to examine the flashing between the chimney and the roof to see that it is still watertight. If it is damaged, it is possible to patch it with caulk.

Once you know that the outside of the chimney is sound you can move indoors. Remove any ashes and debris from the fireplace using a shovel and a bucket. Once the fireplace is clear then it is worth using brushes to sweep the chimney or flue itself. You can either call an expert to do this part for you or have a go at it yourself. It is important to cover all furniture and carpets before you get started though, the soot tends to fly everywhere.

If you are doing this yourself then it is worth having a friend outside watching the chimney to see when the brushes appear at the top of the structure.

Finally, once the chimney has been swept and the excess soot has been cleared, it is worth giving the fireplace itself a good clean using a mix of soapy water.

If you have a wood burning stove, you can clean the glass using specialist chemicals (but be sure to wear protective clothing). It is also important to check the fibrous seal on the door to be sure that it is in good shape.


Replacing and installing a window may seem like a daunting task but with a bit of pre-planning it is actually relatively easy to do. First pre-order your replacement window and check that it is the right size before you start work. Once you know that the new window fits, start to gather all the tools and equipment you need so that the job can be completed smoothly. It is worth asking a friend or a colleague to help you with the installation, this job is much easier with two people. If the window is above ground level then it is important to make sure you have a safe stable low level platform to work from.

Although it might be possible to complete the installation with a step ladder or an extension ladder, a mobile scaffold tower offers complete stability or a Mobile Elevating Work Platform (MEWP)that can be operated with the touch of a button such as a pop-up scissor lift or a power tower nano are another options especially if the window is really large. For really large windows it might be worth investing in some staging boards to give you a much larger base to work from.

Even if you are fitting a window at ground level you may still need a raised platform. Podium steps offer the perfect solution when it comes to those hard to reach areas.

Remove the old window frame and prepare the opening. In most cases, providing the size is exactly right, the installation is straightforward and you should be able to fit the new window through the frame into the wall. Make sure that the frame is sealed after installation.

If you are also putting in a new window sill, then attach it to the bottom of the frame before you install the structure. Position the window by placing it in the opening and hold it in place with wood shims. Use a spirit level to make sure it is straight and measure diagonally from both corners to make sure the distance is the same.

Fix the frame by drilling pilot holes for the frame fasteners through the frame and into the wall. Remove any protruding shims and fill any larger gaps around the frame with expanding foam. If you are fitting vinyl frames then protect them with masking tape – the foam will damage the finish.

Once the foam is dry, trim it with a knife and carefully add a line of cement around the joint to hide the foam. Finally seal the frame with a continuous bead of latex caulk.

How To Felt A Shed Roof

Making sure your roof is totally watertight means that the structure of your building will last longer and need fewer repairs in the future. Whether you are felting a shed roof or preparing an underlay to go under shingles or tiles for a larger structure, laying the roof felt correctly is key when it comes to eliminating damp and leaks.

First of all, it is important to estimate how much roof felt you will need for the task. Don’t forget to include extra for an overlap on the joints. If you have the basic roof measurements, you should be able to work out the net coverage.

Next gather together all the tools and equipment you will need to get the job done. That includes kit to help you safely work at height along with tools such as hammers, a Stanley knife and screwdrivers.

If you are working on a small structure like a garden shed then you may find that a step ladder or an extension ladder is sufficient but if you are felting a larger two-storey building then a mobile scaffold tower and a roof ladder will offer you much more stability. It might even be worth considering using specialist equipment like a low-level platform to reach trickier areas or a high clearance tower to work round large immoveable objects. Staging boards can offer you a much wider reach and more stability if you are working at height for a longer period of time.

Once you have got access to all of your equipment the first job is to clean the roof, making sure there is no debris, nails sticking out or anything else that might damage the felt.

Make sure that the structure is dry before you start (it is best to choose a warm spring or summer day) and inspect the roof decking for rot or decay.

Start at the bottom of the roof decking rolling the felt lengthways. Allow the felt to overhang the eave. This will make it impossible for water to get into contact with the decking underneath.

Don’t forget to tack the end of the felt when you start rolling to keep it in place while you adjust the rest of it. Pull the felt taut from the other end so that it lies flat on the roof while taking care not to damage or rip it in the process.

Use plastic cap felting nails which should be space about 12 inches apart along the bottom edge to keep the layer in place. Allow about four inches of overlap on each layer and don’t forget to leave a one foot overlap on the ridge of the roof. Use tar or a roofing mastic to cover the nail heads to ensure that the layer is watertight.

How To Install CCTV

Installing CCTV can give you ultimate peace of mind when it comes to safeguarding your property and your home. It also deters thieves. The key is to make sure that you have the right cables for the job.

For most CCTV systems, the industry standard is the RG59 Siamese cable which consists of positive and negative elements ie: one video cable and one power cable.

Choosing the right location for your CCTV is also important – there is no point in fixing up a camera focused on an area where there is not likely to be any action should a break-in occur. Specialist CCTV design software is available to help you decide. It is possible to use an IP Video System Design Tool to do this by importing the floor plans of your property and adding cameras so that you can see the sort of coverage it gives and the potential angle views.

In most instances cameras are installed in areas where the roof and the walls of the structure meet. This has additional benefits; it means that your cameras receive some protection from the weather and choosing a location high up means that it offers a wider view as well as being more difficult to vandalise.

Before you start the installation it is important to gather all of the equipment necessary for the job so that you can safely work at height. A step ladder is the obvious choice but often it might be better to choose equipment with a sturdier platform to work from such as a mobile scaffold tower or a low level platform.

Hiring a piece of specialist equipment such as podium steps or an alloy stair scaffold tower will give you added security and may well help you get the job done quickly and easily.

Fixing your CCTV camera where the walls meet the roof will also make it easier for you to access a point of entrance such as the loft space to run the CCTV cables into the building.

Next you can run the cables through the attic and into the room where the monitor is located and connect it to the DVR. (You may need to purchase additional connections for the cables).

To avoid potential damage, it is important to ensure that the correct DC voltage is supplied to your cameras. If in doubt, make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It is also recommended that the DVR is plugged into the monitor before you switch on the power supply.

How To Install A Chandelier

A chandelier creates a really beautiful centrepiece in any home. The reflection of light from countless crystal droplets can give a very special effect but installing such a complicated light fitting can turn into a nightmare if you don’t plan ahead and use the right equipment.

Follow a few simple steps and installing a chandelier can be completed quickly and easily without damaging any of the precious crystal strands.

First things first; it is important to switch off the electricity that will be powering the chandelier. That means turning off the power in the room that you are working in. Make sure you disconnect the fuse of the power supply before you continue and move away any breakable objects from your working area.

Use a step ladder, or better still a low level platform such as podium steps or a delta deck as a secure base to work from and put a thick blanket on the floor so that if you do accidentally drop any of the crystal prisms it will cushion the fall and minimise breakages.

Before you actually start installing the chandelier, it is wise to test that the power is off. Don’t just try the light switch, use a non-contact voltage tester or a circuit tester to confirm that there is no power in the fitting.

Move detachable pieces of the old fitting. Using specialist work at height equipment such as narrow podiums steps with a wide working space will help here because it will give you somewhere safe to put the pieces while you are dismantling the fitting.

You may need a wrench or a screwdriver to detach the old fitting. This job is easier if you have an assistant to help. It is important not to let the old fitting hang just from its wiring without support because it could fall damaging the wiring.

Make a note of how the wires are connected. Most are colour coded and it might even be worth making a diagram of how it all fits together. If you have any doubts at all then get a qualified electrician to help you, it is not worth taking any risks.

Establish the weight of your chandelier in advance. If it weighs more than 50lbs you will need to install additional support such as a fan brace or a box.

Once you know that that there is sufficient support for your chandelier then the next step is to assemble the chandelier base. Remember that a chandelier should be at least seven foot above ground level so it may be necessary to shorten the chain on the fitting.

Finish assembling the chandelier. Avoid twisting the chandelier too much because it can loosen the wiring.

Once the chandelier is assembled and the power is switched back on you can sit back, relax and enjoy your room’s stunning centrepiece. You will be surprised what a difference it makes to the reflection of light.

How to install fascias and soffits

Many people are put off by carrying out repairs and refits when it comes to fascia and soffit boards on their home. It really is a straightforward task and providing you use the right equipment and adhere to a few rules then there is no reason why you can’t do it yourself.

Safety is the key so it is important that you can easily access the area using the right equipment so it is worth hiring scaffolding or a mobile scaffold tower with staging boards so that you have a wider reach.

Alternatively a low-level platform such as a pop up scissor lift or a Boss x2 scissor lift provides an excellent stable base to work from providing you have access and a level ground line.

If you are replacing old soffit boards then it is important to establish whether they contain asbestos, which was common in older properties. If so, then it is necessary to contact your local authority for further advice before you start.

The first job is to clear the working areas. That means removing old guttering and downpipes, recycling them and fitting new ones when the job is done. Push back the second row of tiles and carefully remove the first row so you can get to the fascia and soffits.

It is usual to find that the felting is damaged and decayed where moisture has permeated by nesting birds and it is also important to watch out wasps nests.

Cut back the felting and fit a damp course or PVC underneath to ensure that any water runs over the fascia and into the gutter. The fascia can now be removed. It is important to clean and refurbish the area underneath the rafters and to check that the rafters are in good condition. Any rafters that are showing signs of damage will need to be removed and replaced.

Next, make sure that the hangers are secure and form a strong base for both the soffits and the fascia.

For a new build, timber rafters must be a maximum of 600mm for all white fascias and 400mm for foiled fascias. Because foils absorb more heat than white fascias it is necessary for them to be spaced at shorter distances.

Gable end framing must be provided to fix barge boards. Always allow the correct expansion gaps at joints and corners when joining long sections of PVC fascia and soffit boards.

How To Paint A House

Painting your house needn’t be complicated. Nor do you necessarily need to call in the experts. Providing you are reasonably fit it is likely that you will be able to tackle this job yourself.

The first stage is to inspect your paint work. It might be that you can get away with touching up the areas that are deteriorating most or simply to paint the side of the property that is most exposed to the elements.

Choose a dry day when temperatures are not too cold or when there is not too much hot sun beating down. Very cold temperatures and hot sunshine can ruin any new paint work.

Make sure you have all the appropriate equipment so that you can reach all areas of your paint work. You could, of course, use an extension ladder for the higher areas or a step ladder for the paint work that is just out of reach but for extra safety it is often better to hire a mobile scaffold tower. That way you will have a strong secure platform to work from.

Think carefully about hard-to-reach areas and how to work round large immovable objects. It may be necessary to hire staging boards to give you a wider reach or a high clearance frame while working round conservatories or porches. A low-level platform can also be useful where you need extra stability.

Take a good look at your walls and wash them with a hose and warm soapy water so that you can really see any damaged areas.

Keep a sharp eye out for blistering or peeling paint, mildew, and rust. When you have identified the problem areas, you can repair them and the better your repair, the longer your paint job will last in the future.

Look out for leaks under gutters and downpipes and repair them to solve the problem before painting. Remember to remove wall fittings and fixtures including name plaque, numbers, lights and awnings all of which should be cleaned, repaired and where necessary, painted separately.

Make sure your house is thoroughly dry before you start painting. There are many different types of paint out there so it might be worth taking advice on the right type of paint for the job. Using a brush or a pad may be time-consuming or you could hire a sprayer to speed up the process but try this out at ground level first, a high pressure sprayer may have the power to knock you off a ladder. Use protective clothing and goggles and practice at ground level before moving on to higher areas.

The most important thing is to make sure the preparation and painting are well done and take your time – all your hard work will pay off in the long run ensuring that the paint job will last for many years to come.

How to fix roof tiles

Every householder has to cope from time to time with deterioration of the fabric of the property resulting from ageing, the weather or other causes. Some are minor jobs a busy home-owner may choose to put off for a while. But one job that cannot be ignored is a leaky roof.

It’s vital to replace broken tiles to prevent damage to ceilings and the general fabric of the house.

Replacing a cracked roof tile or two is not a difficult job, and one any fit, handy person can do for themselves.

There are many different kinds of roofing tiles on the market. Make sure you have the right replacement tiles to hand before you start. Then think hard about how you intend to get on to the roof. Roofs can be steep and slippery. Safety is crucial. Falls can be deadly.

The job itself might be simple, but remember that it has to be done at roof height. A small job can be tackled with a roofing ladder that hooks on to the roof ridge. Make sure the ladder you to use to get on to the roof is stable, and get someone to hold the bottom of the ladder. Move carefully and wear gloves.

If the work is likely to be not just a minor repair but something more extensive that will take time, it might be better to hire a mobile scaffold tower and staging boards or alternatively a low-level platform.

For really extensive roof-repair work, rigid scaffolding is the only safe answer. Obviously that will cost more if you live in a house with two or more storeys than if you live in a bungalow.

Every job is different, but think it all out before you start. How big an area of roof will you have to work on? Hiring a large scaffold tower might not necessarily be cheaper than scaffolding if you are going to have to move it about a lot.

Remember that while you are walking about on the roof making repairs you can easily crack more tiles, so move gently.

To replace a tile, lift slightly the tiles that overlap it, and use small wooden wedges to hold them up. Lift the broken tile and slide it down and out.

A new tile can stand out on an older roof. If you don’t want that, you can try to find reclaimed tiles that match, or put the new tile in a less conspicuous spot on the roof and use a weathered tile where it shows.

How to install guttering

Installing your own guttering can save you money and isn’t difficult if you are reasonably fit and handy.

But as with all jobs that entail working from height, safety is a crucial factor. Falls can be deadly.

If you choose to use a ladder, make sure it’s on firm ground, properly upright, with its base a quarter of its height from the wall. Get someone to hold it. At least three rungs of an extension ladder should overlap, to give stability. It’s not safe to rest the ladder against guttering. So that its weight isn’t resting on the gutter, use a metal stand-off at the top to hold it away from the wall. For greater safety, hire an access tower and staging boards, a low level platform, or scaffolding.

Before you start, inspect the fascia boards and soffits. Replace any rotten wood before you fit new gutters. Make sure all wood is properly primed and painted.

Most modern guttering is plastic. It’s the easiest sort to fit, is durable and long-lasting, and comes in a range of shapes and styles.

Measure up and ascertain the length of guttering you need, and the various bends and fittings. Most gutters are eaves gutters, the kind you find at the edge of sloping roofs, attached to the fascia boards with brackets. For special purposes there are also several other types of guttering, square, mini ogee, and parapet and valley gutters. But most gutters are simple plastic eaves gutters.

The first bit to fit is the section with the outlet that joins the downpipe, either a stop-end outlet at the gutter end or a running outlet in the middle. Downpipes should be directly over a drain. To make sure they are, use a plumb line. The outlet should be no more than 50mm below the roof tiles.

At one end of the gutter, preferably the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, fit a gutter bracket, tie a line to its base, stretch it along the fascia and tie it to the outlet, and check with a spirit level that the fall is towards the outlet. Mark where the other brackets are to go. They should be no more than a metre apart and a maximum of 150mm from a joint or fitting. Do the same for mid-gutter outlets, so that the fall is always towards the outlet.

Fit the stop-ends and the rest of the brackets, then clip in the gutter. Join subsequent lengths of gutter to the first section using union pieces fixed to the fascia. Lengths can be cut to size with a hacksaw.

Because plastic guttering expands in hot weather and contracts in cold, fittings all have a depth mark. When you join sections of gutter or fit a section into a bracket, make sure you line up all the joints with the depth marks.

If your eaves overhang, you’ll need when fitting downpipes to bridge the gap between the gutter and the wall with fittings called offset bends, linked by a piece of downpipe. Making sure the downpipe is vertical, and fix it to the wall with the clips provided.

The first length of downpipe should be fitted with its socket at the top, ensuring that there is a 10mm gap, to allow for expansion, between the end of the outlet and the bottom of the socket.

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